Leather Then and Now

Have you ever wondered why leather is so popularEurope. Leather was used for clothes and other
and has great appeal? Well, let me say that besidesgarments such as gloves, vests called jerkins,
resembling fashion prestige, leather was preliminarilyjackets, and boots. Further, when the Europeans
used for practical purposes. Explore how leatherarrived in America, they found Indians wearing
usage and leather clothes have evolved over time!clothes made of buckskin or buffalo hide. The Indians
In the beginning, it was more of a question ofused all parts of the animal when they hunted for
durability than aesthetic admiration when the earliestfood, clothes, and shelter. When the colonists settled
inhabitants of this planet discovered that animal skinsin the New World, they learned the oil tanning
were more practical to wear than to eat. Man's firstmethod from the Indians and supplemented it to the
real garments consisted of raw hides. Later, in theknowledge they had with them from Europe.
Stone Age, bone tools were used to clean and sewTanneries were in existence throughout the colonies
pelts into crude clothing. Nevertheless, the clothingby the end of the 17th century.
was not tanned, and, therefore, it was not what weA hundred years later, a break-through was made
perceive today as leather.when it was discovered that oak bark was not the
The origins of tanning are unclear. However, theonly plant derivative that could be used for tanning.
ancient Hebrews are recognized to be the ones whoExtracts from other plants popular in North
created an oak bark process that is still used today.America--the bark of hemlock and chestnut
Leather was a vital trade product throughout thetrees--proved to be equally effective.
cradle of civilization. History has claimed that theLeather production became less onerous and
sea-faring Phoenicians permeated the colorfulaffordable during the nineteenth century where there
influence of Babylonian embroidered and adornedwere many advances made in the leather industry.
leatherwork to other Mediterranean countries. Also, inFor instance, an American chemist devised a tanning
Egypt, numerous leather artifacts that have lastedmethod using chromium salts that took a few hours
for thousands of years were found in the tombs ofin lieu of the weeks or months needed for vegetable
Pharaohs. In addition, since there are a myriad oftanning. In addition, machines were developed that
references to leather in the Old Testament, it iscut, even further, the time needed to make leather.
believed that it was during that particular era thatToday's leather has to go through several steps of
people started to utilize leather for differentcleaning and soaking before tanning. Then, the hides
purposes, such as making leather clothes.are sorted, graded, and split into varying thickness by
The first recorded tanner's guild appeared during themachines. Some skins are chosen to make suede,
early days of the Roman Empire. The craftsmanshipwhere the flesh side of the skin is buffed to produce
of sandals and boots was so significant that theirits characteristic pile. This process is followed by
quality brought status to the owner. Furthermore,tanning, using either chemical or vegetable tans,
Roman armies found the nomadic Teutonic tribesdepending upon the type of leather desired. Next,
fully dressed in leather (for protection against thethe skins are washed, pressed, and polished. Some
cold weather) when the armies raided the north ofskins are oiled, greased, or waxed. Others are dyed
Europe. When the Roman armies returned to Rome,in many colors, usually with coal tar or aniline dyes.
the soldiers adopted the barbaric custom of wearingFinally, as history has attested, leather methods will
leather pants, called braccae. The Emperor tried tobe constantly improved over time. And we are
stop the phenomenon, but to no avail. Eventually, allgrateful for the richness and affordable variety
men won over to the new style.available to all of us! A lot of what we know now is
During the Renaissance, tanners' guilds existed all overbecause of our innovative, industrious anscetors.